The rivermouth area is dotted with picnickers

Hawke's Bay is putting in its claim to be New Zealand's cycle capital, and the region has reason to boast.

Around 200 kilometres of trails meander across the mostly flat seaside plains; the terrain is purpose-built for cyclists and walkers.

The Bay's Rotary clubs began building the trails a decade ago before passing the baton to the Regional Council. Now with the boost from Nga Haerenga, the New Zealand Cycle Trail, three scenic routes - the Landscapes, Water and Wineries rides - are established as the Hawke's Bay Trails. And the province is determined to make sure the trails link as a network. An urban cycleway - known as the iWay - now links Flaxmere, Hastings, Havelock North and Clive.

Keen for a break from a gusty period in Wellington's early summer, I take my mum for a relaxed, two-day pedal along the trails. The forecast promises 21 degrees in Hastings - and that was the overnight low. We head for the Landscapes Ride first, a loop that hugs the Tukituki riverbank near Havelock North. Leaving our car at Black Bridge, we slather on sunscreen and pedal away.

The route combines off-road trails with quiet country roads and we're immediately immersed in the dry air and aromas of a Hawke's Bay summer. A rambling lime-sand path stretches endlessly in front of us, its surface twinkling in the bright sunlight. Sunglasses are essential for comfortable riding on these paths.

At first, we're perched up on the stopbank of the river, which gives expansive views. The ubiquitous grapevines dominate the plains in all directions. It's hard not to believe that we're in Tuscany or Provence.

Not long in, we're tempted by the Tuki Kitchen cafe for lunch and a glass of local wine. Settling under the shade of a giant fig tree, we opt for a tasty, thin-crusted pizza, accompanied by a pinot gris. We soon realise that this could set the pace for weeks of contented cycling.

Back on the saddle, we follow the gently winding road towards Red Bridge, where we turn left to double back along the river's other side. A few short hill-climbs transport us to a spot with stunning views of Craggy Range and Te Mata Peak. With the slow pace and open-air perspective that bicycles offer, we can fully take in the view.

According to the Kennett brothers, well-known cycle enthusiasts and guide-book authors, this ride has "a few good hills" - interpret that how you like. We work up a ladylike glow, but the gradient isn't too onerous.

The rivermouth area is dotted with picnickers and fisher-people, but on the bike trail we feel a sense of space and separation. It's built to suit those on wheels, with nice curvy bridges to help you roll over the water sections.

After four hours of relaxed riding, we drive past Taradale to overnight at Whinfield Country Bed and Breakfast, right beside the 17km Puketapu Loop trail. We plan to bike it tomorrow, but first we have a dinner planned at a nearby country pub, the award- winning Puketapu - previously known as the Pheasant's Nest. No chance of trying a pheasant on the night, looking at the menu, but the fish-of-the-day proves a good choice.

It feels like we're way out in the backblocks now, immersed in lovely rolling hills with a quiet, winding road; yet the suburban streets of Taradale are only a five-minute drive.

Our home for the night sits high on a hill, with views of the Tutaekuri River and distant Kaweka Ranges.

Next morning, we leave the car behind, and pedal a steep, gravelly downhill trail to meet the Puketapu trail.

The trail runs parallel to the river and again forms a loop between bridges. It features lovely bush-clad sections just a stone's throw from river pools. We cross paths with various ambling dog-walkers and a large family group teetering along on bikes of all sizes.

We're becoming expert now at navigating the frequent stopbank gates, which require a certain knack to shuffle yourself and your bike gracefully through.

Packing our bikes once more in the car boot, we farewell our host and drive to Napier, to access the scenic north end of the Water Trail.

The route skirts the Ahuriri Estuary, a bird-lover's paradise. It provides food and rest areas for more than 70 species of waterbirds - including the bar-tailed godwit, which flies here from Alaska to escape the winter.

It is not far to bridge-hop across to Westshore, where we follow the wide trail into Ahuriri's wharf-side cafe village, and celebrate our trip's end with another lunch.

"Build it and they will come" is a catch-cry of cycle-trail advocates. Looks like it's working for the Hawke's Bay, from the multitude of cyclists we saw. The trails are popular not just with seasoned, lycra-wearers; cyclists of all ages and abilities are having a go.

Owen Mata, iWay project manager, agrees cyclist numbers are "booming" on the trails - for locals and visitors alike: "For the iWay trail, our counts show a 20 per cent annual increase in cyclists."

"Cycling's economic potential is increasingly recognised here in Hawke's Bay," says Mata. "Not just from tourism, but local household savings on fuel and vehicles."